18 November 2010

Garden DesignFest - A Weekend of Inspiration

Last weekend I ventured off to see many of Victoria's well respected landscape designers projects. Each visit was worthwhile and each garden had some spectacular and inspirational qualities. It was so refreshing to see that plants were primarilty the focus of each garden. Plant combinations and the vast use of plants where other hard landscaping features are set into the garden to soften and almost make them disappear is a testament to designing with plants.  I will post a few of my favourites over the next few days.

Garden Fest – Garden 4 - Richard Bellemo – Deepdene


From the moment you arrive you are aware a piece of magical charm awaits. This house and garden is set is a cosy colder sac and to enter the property one must go through the rusted iron trimmed gates into a garden that continues to expand as you venture in. Highlights for me were the retention of mature specimen trees, particularly the Cork Oak – Quercus suber pictured centre. Richard has constructed a feature area around the tree so that you can enjoy it’s splendour and health. The other highlight was the large outdoor kitchen which included a wood fire. A dry stone retaining wall is built from the outdoor kitchen to the pool area. This walled garden is where all the herbs are planted for easy access. This is an amazing garden for the cooks who want to share their culinary feasts with visitors in this outdoor entertaining delight.

Elements I took from this garden includes height and depth right throughout the garden to truly make it a three dimensional art piece. The large trees, climbers up posts and retaining walls provide the necessary height to keep the large outdoor kitchen from sticking out of place. The garden beds are deep and filled with varying combinations of textures and shades of green. The garden uncovers ‘rooms’ with purpose from the front to the back. Just amazing.

03 September 2010

What Spring and Stage 2 Water Restrictions means to you

Australia is a dry continent and the recent drought that lasted over 13 years was an insight of what many believe is more to come. We have been very fortunate to have received all this winter rain and hopefully it continues into spring and summer (preferably at night so we can really enjoy those sunny warm days outside). You may be aware by now that water restrictions have been down-graded to Stage 2 across Melbourne. As a horticulturist and environmentalists I encourage people within Melbourne to continue the smart water conservation practices that have become part of life for years now. It’s not difficult and you can achieve a beautiful full lush garden. Here are some tips and a quick run down of what Stage 2 means for you if you live in Melbourne. Our country cousins will remain on the various water restrictions and your local water authority is best place to advise you of changes (if any) that may happen.

GARDENING TIPS
  • Use plants that tolerate low water conditions and group plants with like requirements in your garden.
  • Redesign your garden to include a low water tolerant plants and a manual/automatic dripper system.  
  • Understand your gardens possibilities and limitations in an inherently dry continent and climate.
  • Water deeply to encourage deep root growth and therefore less often than shallow rooted plants.
  • Mulch your garden with a composted mulch. I like to use a blend of mushroom and eucy mulch. Mulch at 50 – 75mm deep only, any more and you will have problems actually getting water deep into the soil and root profile. Best to mulch a couple of times a year with the right mulch to enhance and grow your garden.
  • Seek professional advice 
BE WISE WITH YOUR MULCH
You may be wondering why your garden isn’t growing and yet you have had it planted out and mulched. I am finding with clients and other gardens that often people have mulched with uncomposted mulch very thickly which has caused the soil profile to become hydrophobic as the water just isn’t getting to the soil. That and the mulch is trying to breakdown and compost while on the garden beds. If you have this problem, you can either remove the mulch and start again with the good stuff, or find other areas in your garden to spread it out and introduce a slim layer of composted mulch, until it breaks down.

Note - Lawns still cannot be watered at any time

WHEN CAN YOU WATER
Even and no-numbered properties can water on even dates
Odd numbered properties can water on odd dates
Everyone can water on the 31st of the month.

HOW 
  1. Manual dripper systems and trigger-nozzle fitted hoses can be used on specified watering days between 6 – 8 am and 8 – 10 pm.

  2. If someone in your household is 70 years or over you can use a manual watering system between 8 – 10 am instead of 6 – 8 am, and between 8 – 10 pm.  
  3. Automatic watering systems can be used between midnight – 4 am.  
  4. Hand watering any time using a watering can, bucket or hand held hose fitted with a trigger nozzle.
Car washing
At any time by bucket filled directly from a tap or a high pressure water cleaning device only. A hand held hose fitted with a trigger nozzle can not be used.

Pools and spas
An existing pool or spa can be topped up using a hand held hose fitted with a trigger nozzle, or a watering can or bucket, filled either by a hand held hose fitted with a trigger nozzle, or directly from a tap. A new pool or spa of up to 2,000 litres can be filled with drinking water. A new pool or spa greater than 2,000 litres must have a Water Conservation Plan.

27 July 2010

Sunny Winter days with Spring on the horizon

I haven't posted for a while, but that's because DIG has picked up more clients for project implementation work and maintenance and of course Semester 2 of Uni has commenced.

A few quick tips for end of July and August:

For inspiration - look towards the native Dendrobium orchids which are starting to send out flower canes, and of course the Doryanthes flower spikes are starting to open up.

For jobs in your garden:
  • Rose pruning time
  • keep you weeds away (believe me they seem to be everywhere right now)
  • keep up your garden irrigation, whether it be by drip irrigation, by hand on your allowable days or bucket. The soil will quickly dry out from here on.

Last tip - start preparing the soil for your vegie patch. Start adding manure, compost, mulch and water and start digging it in. I will provide a simple yet detailed approach to your vegie garden soon.

Keep in touch folks. Do you have any garden queries?

08 July 2010

Irrigation and way beyond the garden scope

Overlooking Lake Eildon from the dam wall.
I'm right in the middle of an intensive session on Victoria's water management policies which includes decisions made by governments and the effects over many terms. We've covered a wide range of issues including; groundwater, environmental flows, water quality, water quality and water quality. I am so pleased I have enjoyed a life in between my horticultural years to be able to give me a better and more informed perspective (well far more than my other colleagues have had the pleasure of...).

 
Today we went on a pretty extensive field trip covering the Goulburn Broken and Goulburn Murray districts, including Lake Mokoan with a very mixed bag of students made up from ag/hort and economics. Our lecturer is an 'endering' man although it's taken me three days to come to terms with this. Initially I couldn't get past that he was a cranky old irrigator that has been burnt by governments and doesn't rate behavioural change, research and science as the key to water management. On this trip I questioned many grose generalisations tainted with obvious bias that were made...Anyway... I digress.

 
Lake Mokan was initially brutal. Here was an area once made up of approximately 11 wetland areas spread over a 9,000 hectare area, that was dammed in the 1960's. The wetlands became "Lake Mokoan" which was an inefficient expansive shallow pan that lost more water through evaporation, it became contaminated with Blue Green Algae blooms and ineffective at times when irrigators wanted to access the water. Yes, a big white elephant. The "Lake" has been decommissioned and being restored to wetlands. This will take some - many many years - to restore. The environment does take years to repair can should not measured in political terms. Amongst the group there seemed to be some cinicysum about the current state of the area and the funds being allocated to restoring this environment, which I found a bit rich. The area was once a flourishing wetland and deserves a chance to try and regenerate - for our sakes and our generations to come.

 
I am fortunate to have been informed and have had worked with tough, well educated and passionate people when good policy was being made at a very difficult time - to restore the wetlands and return the water to the environment in drought times. This by the way is a very simplified explaination of a very complex issue. 

 
A few very positive things worth passing on so far:
  • The Victorian country side is so beautiful and I encourage everyone to be amongst it at some stage throughout the years seasons;
  • It's July now and it's dam cold, so rug up and release yourself to the low mists, fogs and low lying cloud areas;
  • Stop at the weirs, creeks and dams along your travels or make them along your travels, there is so much to ponder, question and appreciate all in the one setting;
  • Go to Lake Mokoan and see the very incipient stages of restoring the wetlands, whilst feeling somewhat shattered by the tree grave like area it is on its surrounds due to flooding and now restoring;
  • Visit Lake Eildon and appreciate its magnitude - past, present and future. Lake Eildon is only around 2 hours from Melbourne and well worth the trip;
  • Go to the Goulburn Weir. Mind you it's surrounded by high security fencing. But if you can get past it you notice the flow of water streaming over that supplies many surrounding farms and stock & domestic. It just needs a 'fish ladder'. Yes, today I learnt about fish ladders and now wonder why they're not mandatory with every weir, dam - anything that impedes the flow of water - to sound like a 60's hippie - "let the fish flow man!"

 
So if you have the chance to explore this area, or any country side for that matter, take notice of the local rivers and streams (and always the trees) - take notice of the direction and strength of flow, notice if the surrounding environment has been considered - ie have wetlands been not only considered but honoured right throughout. Is ground water being accessed beyond repair, are the riverside neighbours accountable for their pollution and effect on water quality - which ends up down stream....  arrhhh yes, the story's only taking shape.

 

 
Standing from Lake Eildon wall looking down the valley

26 June 2010

Majestic trees and all they have to offer

After this week it may look like I'm walking around with my head in the clouds, but not so, my head is firmly in the trees. This week I started a masters subject in Managing Trees in Urban Horticulture and enjoyed it immensely. I have always love the majesty of trees. I am constantly amazed at their ability to grow so tall, strong, provide environmental benefits, house animals, defy gravity, withstand and regrow from devastating events, such as fire and the list goes on.

Trees should be included into most gardens. Often people are reluctant to plant trees for fear they may grow too big, that their root system may rip up driveways, destroy pipe systems, oh and the one I really find entertaining – trees drop leaves. Let me put a few of these ‘reasons’ into perspective.

Firstly, "a tree may grow too big..." This is very subjective – what is too big? A tree’s size at maturity does need to be a primary consideration when including trees into your garden. However, most gardens have the potential to include a thriving majestic specimen. Trees, like any plant chosen for a garden, needs to be selected for a specific site. Trees will give you a strong three dimensional atmosphere to your garden. Trees provide structure and grunt to your garden and as long as you buy healthy stock from a reliable tree grower, and plant it properly in the first instance, trees will look after themselves after the ‘establishment period’ – say three months.

You should buy from a reliable grower/supplier to better ensure your tree has good fibrous roots that aren’t pot bound, and that it has good vitality and form. This sets you up right from the beginning. Prior to planting your tree, please read this internet page  http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_planting.aspx It gives a very straightforward and recommended planting method. Essentially your hole needs to be shallow(ish) and wide, not deep and narrow. Tree shouldn’t be planted too deep otherwise you’re opening up to various root and rot problems down the track.
While I’m on roots, I can tell you that tree roots won’t seek out your water pipe system to destroy them. If your pipes are cracked and leak the yes roots will grow well in this site. Why wouldn’t they, it’s an area with a permanent water supply. Cracked pipes should be replaced in any case.

Well I suppose my perspective on trees comes from a completely plant and horticultural bias, but also a respectful bias. Trees, small medium or large are amazing natural structures. As you walking around your local area or on your travels, just look up and you will see (I hope) some large tree canopy’s. If you get the chance, have a real look at it’s whole form, it’s trunk, bark, flowers, fruits and leaves. Most trees have something visually to offer and you may be very surprised and inspired by what you see.

Before I leave it here, I cannot finish without mentioning the attraction trees offer to bird and wildlife  in urban, periurban and country landscapes. As I walked into Burnley this morning through the native garden, I was overcome in such a relaxing way by the sound of birds. Where there are birds, and many of them are native, there is no doubt a plentyful food source for them - and here we have a little thriving ecology in the heart of Melbourne. 

All these photos were taken in May this year at Ripponlea. I was constantly looking up as I entered the garden and walked along the main driveway. The canopy of this Ficus macrophylla dominates as you get closer to the house. It openes up to reveal a huge buttress and spreading branches, taking ownership of the space. It was a majestic entrance to a majestic house and era.

18 June 2010

A TASTE OF WINTER DELIGHTS

Luculia gratissima - Deliciously fragrant, multi-branching open shrub. Suits a sheltered south-easterly aspect. These scent and grandeur of these flowers is a definite asset to a garden if you have the right site.

The gigantic flower spikes emerging from Doryanthes excelsa. These will open up in spring and hold for quite a while. It's just such a magnificent structure to have and utilise in a garden.




The delicate appearing but very durable flowers of Leptospermum scoparium (Tea Tree). Many Australian natives flower in winter when climatic conditions are not as harsh, and so that their seed pods appear and are ready to be dispersed from spring to autumn when fire is more prevalent across the environment.

Agave attenuata - Give this plant some space and let it fill it without too much fuss and bother. It's an all year round performer - good structure, texture and colour.


Bronze juvenile growth of the Coastal Tea Tree - Leptospermum laevigatum. Leaf colour and changing leaf colour can be a very useful element when thinking about plants for your landscape.


Strelitzia reginae - Bird of Paradise, has been around in Victorian and Australian gardens almost since exotic plants started arriving, and for a very good reason. This Mediterranean plant has great architectural form - strong and purposeful, the flowers are interesting, prolific and long lasting on the plant. They are a great cut flower and provide interesting colour contrast.

Ground Covers
This is a Helichrysum of some sort. I need to find out what species. It's a great little native ground cover, like a little ray of bright sunshine.


Viola ground cover flowers. An often overlooked plant these days but still has a purpose in a semi shaded site, although it is not as drought tolerant as some ground covers available now. If you have a semi-shaded site that received some watering, then this could be an option for you. Plant on mass for a deserved effect.

Metallic purple-blue berries of Dianella tasmanica. This is a treat - this fantastic unusual colour should be considered, especially in a native garden.

31 May 2010

Inspiration behind the DIG logo

A logo is an important element of the business. I wanted a simple and classic logo that will survive the test of time, the life of the business (which I’m planning will take me into retirement...) and will also reflect the essence of me and my love of designing with inspiring plants.

 
I worked with the creative Nikita and Georgia and the lovely Kel Doolan from Worldwide Printing, Mount Waverley. They spent the necessary time with me to understand me, my business objectives what I was looking for and what I wasn’t.

From these discussions I was resolved to include somehow the flower of Doryanthes excelsa, Gymea or Spear Lily as it is otherwise known as. It's by far one of my favourites. You will see a floret (a single flower within a larger inflorescence) included into the G of DIG.

Doryanthes excelsa is just a fantastic Australian native plant. It is striking in the landscape. The plant forms a large clump with sword-like leaves to 1 meter high. The flower stems sit up high above the clump with stems of between 2 to 4 m high. Flowering occurs from late Spring to early Summer.

It is a versatile plant to include in garden designs. It can be used well as a specimen/accent plant or used on mass in the right situations in large gardens for an amazing effect. This plant is being incorporated into a current design proposal to be planted as a group under a Melia azedarach a deciduous Australian native valued for it’s form and fragrant flowers.

If you want to know more about any plants written in my blogs then please don’t hesitate to ask. I can give you more information or guide you to good books or internet sites. For information on Australian natives go to http://www.anbg.gov.au/gnp/index.html

Enjoy the Doryanthes and I hope you start seeing them around your travels. They are planted in many public gardens of Melbourne, so keep your eyes peeled, especially as the spear-like flower stems start to emerge.

30 May 2010

I've just completed a small soft landscaping job in South Yarra. The site involves common ground for four large apartments and the residents are mostly all owner occupiers.

The site is initially very harsh on the eye. It is a tall grey building, featuring grey pillars and a grey brick front fence. The garden has been neglected with only a few pink Roses, Gardenias and Camellia's surviving with a flourishing (pink flowering) Hibiscus. The job brief was initially to replace the front turf area. So that's what I did. However I'm not a fan of small turf areas. My preference is to remove the turf and onvert the area to garden bed. By doing this you will reduce your overall water and maintenance requirements.

In any case, the job brief extended following the lawn work. I spoke to the residents and we agreed that the four existing garden bed areas that were made up of mixed plantings and a strip of lawn need a make over. So up came the strips of lawn and the garden beds were extended. The front fence-line has been planted with Olive trees which will be pleached and provide a tall softening screen effect. A secondary planting of Osmanthus fragrans will be hedged as a two tier effect with the Olives to provide a solid structure for the front. The Buxus hedge along the front wall of the apartments wasn't performing and so it was removed to make way for a Rosemary hedge planting.

You will see in the photos areas of extending grey brick work. Here I have planted Parthenocissus tricuspidata (Boston Ivy) to make its way up the grey pillars which will soften the entire landscape. Other plants used in the garden beds had to be able to suit the existing pink flowering plants, so here I've include Loropetalum 'China Blush', Rhaphiolepis umbellata, Sedum 'Autumn Joy' amongst a mix of silver ground cover and grassy/strappy like foliage plants.

The landscape is in it's very infantile stage and the true test of development will be to see what sort of first year results in late Spring, Summer and Autumn bring and then how the garden develops over the years to come. For now all the residents are happy. It's great to see people's facial and body expressions become so positive as plants arrive on site and are planted and mulched.

25 May 2010

Graceful Ginkgo biloba



This Ginkgo biloba sits solitary on the front lawn of Burnley Gardens. The graceful old tree enjoying the moisture this autumn is bringing compared to previous years. There is a soft almost gentle carpet of rich yellow leaves surrounding the base. The beauty and rich autumn yellow tones stops you in your tracks as you approach the area. Worth the look if you're in the area.

24 May 2010

Understanding plant growth, shape, colour, texture and form is essential for good garden designs. You want a garden that will live a long life, provide beauty and inspiration. This is the case for large expansive big budget gardens to simple plantings.

Today I was pruning a mixed Australian native screen that is planted along a narrow strip (approx 300mm) of garden bed that runs along a driveway. This is just not enough room for such large shrubs, there is no point to this planting, it doesn’t look uniform because of the mixed species and it requires regular pruning so the growth doesn’t impact on the cars.

Try using climbers to green a fenceline. Durable and effective climbers you can use include:
Ficus pumila, an evergreen self supporting climber that grows sucker pads to cling onto a wall or the like surface;
Trachelospermum jasminoides or Aphanopetalum resinosum, both are evergreen twining climbers that do require support to climb but will provide you with a rich green wall dense in habit from the base to the height required.

Climbers do require regular pruning, but they will give you better uniformity along a difficult narrow site. Again, it’s about choosing the right plant for the site.